food and cuisine
The Excellence of the territory, Restaurants and Wine Shops
The territory of Suvereto is a living, open-air museum that celebrates a farming culture beyond stereotypes. Ancient grains, honey, vegetables, aromatic herbs, extra virgin olive oil, cheeses all narrate a territory of fatigue and transhumance, but also of brilliant intuitions… discover it!
Terre di Mario
Località Calzalunga, 184
“Grandfather Mario was a shepherd, and he was well acquainted with the nomadism of transhumance, those who were always travelling, together with Grandmother Ida. In the 1960s he arrived here with his bare feet and he decided to stop”. In these words of Federico Budel there is the beginning of the history of his company. Together with Giulia Mazzetti, a graduate in philosophy, he began a new adventure in the name of bees, also thanks to meeting Alessandro Rinaldi, an expert beekeeper from Pontassieve. Where grandfather Mario’s sheep grazed today bees fly. Working with bees today implies a choice of knowledge and awareness. “It is the most ethical work I could do”, says Giulia. “It’s my first job that makes me feel good because the world of bees gives you this opportunity. Taking care of the health of bees is a demanding and tiring job because the rapid environmental changes do not give these creatures time to adapt. Genetically modified seeds are sterile and no longer produce nectar”. Federico and Giulia’s dream is to build a reserve, a bee motorway characterized by an intact environment “. Terre di Mario is synonym of organic beekeeping where nomadism is practiced in Tuscany: the apiaries are moved in search of blooms far from polluting elements. And honey is the result of the work, in perfect harmony, between Giulia, Federico and their bees. In Alta Maremma, a stone’s throw from Suvereto, different types of millefiiori are produced (spring and wild), while acacia and chestnut honeys are produced in different areas of the Pistoia mountains, from Mugello to Grosseto. The honey of sulla instead comes from the hills of Volterra. In summer, the work of the bees gives an extraordinary sunflower honey; finally, the honeydew, a rich honey with a caramelized flavour. Bees tell us how much man is unable to listen to the voice of nature. Federico and Giulia listen to them every day and live respecting the delicacy of an environment increasingly threatened by invasive and harmful practices, following the “nomadic” roads of Mario and the bees. All this takes place in the lonely lands between Montioni and Suvereto, “a human beehive that feeds on history that is always in motion, that is teeming with ingenuity and efficiency”. The genius loci of this land? “The Milia valley where silent ancient coal mines and an old railway are the traces of a past life”.
Località Cancellino, 145
“I was good at school, but I liked the land a lot. I felt an incredible attraction and it is still great fun for me. Life in the countryside is not easy but there is so much to do, live and experiment”. Stefano Pazzagli was one of the destined of the earth. The Pazzagli family is a piece of agricultural history in the Val di Cornia, a stone’s throw from the village of Suvereto. Stefano has taken up the baton of father Enzo and mother Adelina and today his farm is a concrete symbol of biodiversity and self-sufficiency. In 1995 he was the first to introduce spelt in the Val di Cornia. Then it was the turn of the ancient grains: Senatore Cappelli for pasta and Verne for homemade bread. The farm also produces pearl barley. Stefano’s latest invention is a pasta made with 30% chickpea flour: “you just need a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and a pinch of Parmesan to taste it”. Stefano’s products can be found in local markets and village festivals, but it’s worth getting up here. In the kingdom of a farmer as humble as he is brilliant that he is keen to remind us: “I will always remain small; I do not pursue profit and growth but balance with the earth”.
chianina breeding farm
Località Le Capanne
There is something ancient, rural, forgotten in the Favilli family business that from sharecropping to the global market binds its name to the breeding of “Central Apennine White Beef”, more simply known as the Chianina breed, monumental bovine, which represents one of the finest Italian meats guaranteed by the IGP mark. “I live for these beasts; nobody can move me from here”. Simone Favilli is one of the last breeders who lives in symbiosis with his animals. It is a family business, and the traceability of fine meats is an absolute guarantee. Simone is proud of his work and is proud to show off the splendid white cattle and give advice on how to best prepare the meats and cuts of his bullocks.
Loc. Poggio Diavolino, 216
Fabiano Busdraghi is the farmer of ancient and forgotten vegetables. His is a story that has something unique about it. Graduated in physics with some oceanographic missions behind him, also in Antarctica. He was then an art, fashion, and advertising photographer in Paris. Until he changed everything and landed in Poggio Diavolino, a family farm. Extra virgin olive oil, cows, pigs, and poultry “to detach myself from a computer screen and from laboratory seclusion”, but this is not news in Tuscany. The fact that Federico practices a form of creative agriculture, on the other hand, is an important story. The profound scientific culture and the aesthetic sensitivity, concreteness and imagination with Fabiano become a single entity declined in agriculture. And so, it is normal in Poggio Diavolino for the eggs to be coloured, obviously not painted, but due to the intrinsic characteristics of the breed: pink, light blue, white, chocolate brown and bronzed green! But the heart of the farm beats for ancient vegetables, that is to say species that date back to a few centuries ago or also recent but forgotten by conventional agriculture. And so here you can discover 200 (!) varieties of tomatoes and many more of pumpkins. In a triumph of colours. From blue tomatoes to lemon cucumbers, from purple carrots to strawberry corn, from grapefruit radish to the blue Channel potato. Among the courgettes there are flying saucers, bananas and the “trombetta d’Albenga“, according to Fabiano the Rolls Royce of courgettes! Those who think that all this is an exercise in naturalistic art are wrong. What is the goal of the physicist-farmer? “Saving beauty and good flavours for our children and grandchildren: contributing to a world where biodiversity is a primary asset. Every month ancient varieties of vegetables become extinct. The current trend is to just grow a few varieties of vegetables: a dangerous choice that threatens the food vitality of the planet. Only biodiversity guarantees greater resistance of living beings to adversities such as diseases, fungi, and insects, to genetic erosion that goes hand in hand with progress “. Fabiano tells all this as only he could do with a work of art that has scientific value. Therefore, he is a farmer, an artist, a scientist, but above all an incurable enthusiast.
Località Pietrasca, 44b
Pietrasca is a story of sensitivity towards the land and its values immersed in the large spaces of the Val di Cornia that overlooks Suvereto and its hills. “I changed my way of life when I asked myself about the way my generation feeds itself, but especially also the future ones”. Antonio Russo is the soul, the heart, the hands of the Pietrasca farm. He is keen to clarify that he is a farmer and not an entrepreneur: “I work to live, in the belief that it is still possible to eat in a healthy balanced way”. Since 1996 he has made a pact with his land and today is a point of reference in the Suvereto countryside in the cultivation of ancient grains such as Gentil Rosso and Senator Cappelli, with which he produces two wholemeal flours destined respectively for bread-making and for the production of pasta… Another of Pietrasca‘s strong points are chickpeas, the “meat of the poor”, one of the most precious legumes with remarkable nutritional capacities, also transformed into flour. A noble production of Pietrasca is a golden extra virgin olive oil. There are two labels: the Sogno di Tosca, a mono-varietal and the Capriccio di Tosca, a blend of maurino, moraiolo and pendolino. Fruit trees, especially cherries, and honey complete the productions of a farmer with an organic soul.
Via Cavour, 40
A life among the olive trees. This is, in a nutshell, the life of Orlando Pazzagli, disenchanted keeper of the ancient and beautiful olive trees that from the hill of Piastraia look at the big little world of Suvereto: the plain bordered by the crown of hills that open towards the silver blade of the sea sculpted by the profiles of Montecristo, Elba and Capraia. Piastraia is one of the oldest farms in the area which already produced oil and cereals in the 1700s. Purchased in 1925 thanks to their grandparent’s initiative, they had seen, in this harsh and wonderful land, the ideal environment for planting olive trees. Today those plants are living monuments: sculptures that tell of strength, wisdom, generosity. For Orlando they are like children and brothers, uncles, and grandparents. He knows them all, one by one, and he has a deep bond with them that goes beyond words and touch feelings: “Yes, because the olive trees know how to speak in silence; they have no eyes, but they look at you and are able to listen to you”. Like old masters, they witness the change in a world that is running more and more towards production efficiency. “These great old men, although still producing excellent olives and therefore a high-quality extra virgin olive oil, struggle to be economically sustainable. But they represent an essential value of the landscape and therefore deserve a pension from the institution”. In fact, Orlando speaks of landscape production, traditional and intensive: three different dimensions that photograph the present moment. The extra virgin olive oil was first born in the Orlando oil mill moved from Suvereto village to this little paradise in 1984. It is a place with a soul and Orlando knows this well. He points to his bench under a cypress tree: “When I sit there in the height of summer, I’m in ‘my’ tropics. While the heat oppresses the plain and the combine harvesters work the wheat, a cool current rises up here: it is the breath of the earth and the sea, a caress of well-being”. Piastraia oil is made up of the essences, aromas, flavours, and light of this place that faces south. With intense delicacy he recounts of a cradle of civilization that goes from Populonia (Etruscans and Romans) to Monte Calvi and the plain (Villanovan traces). In the Middle Ages the “fortifications” were built in the hills to escape from the unhealthy plain that became liveable once again with the reclamation of the Lorena between the 18th and 19th centuries. Then again depopulation to greet industrial modernity while visionaries like Orlando’s grandparents returned to repopulate the countryside. This is the history that is studied on this hill, among Orlando’s olive trees.
Biologica Pasquini & Ridulfo
Località San Giovanni, 114
Organic farming can be a certified brand, which is a serious matter; or a modus vivendi and a philosophy of life and therefore something even more important. In the Val di Cornia Pasquini & Ridulfo is synonym of conscious agriculture: garden products such as salads, cabbage, radicchio and onion, ginger, and fruit such as strawberries, melons, watermelons, and delicious peaches are the product of a work of great passion and respect towards the territory. In fact, the fruit and vegetables that are grown are those for which this territory is naturally suited without forcing the plants and stimulating their production with plant rotations or plant associations to guarantee real biodiversity. The work on particular products such as Daikon (a Japanese radish), round turnips with green collars or coloured chard is remarkably interesting; and ancient seeds such as l’insalata di Azzo, an elderly Suveretan, a seed that has now disappeared, that Alessandro and Roberta plant following the “good moon”. The value of this work is expressed in the direct sale of fresh products collected and sold after just a few hours after at the easily accessible stall on the road that connects Venturina with Suvereto. Fruit and vegetables that are not packaged, that do not come from markets and can be taken directly from the box, saving on packaging and without affecting the environment. Buying at the farm’s stall reproduces the almost forgotten practice of shopping at the farmer’s shop in the certainty that quality organic products are being purchased. The energy needs are also guaranteed by three photovoltaic systems that make the farm self-sufficient. Part of Pasquini & Ridulfo’s production is transformed into tomato preserves and sauces with peppers, basil, and aubergines. The brand of the preserved products is “Brindo”, a farmer with a hoe on his shoulder, a symbol of the farm that brings back real contact with the earth and dedication to an ancient and tiring job in this case updated in the sign of respect for the environment and the quality of products that well represent the biodiversity of this territory. And it doesn’t end there because the farm also produces an excellent extra virgin olive oil; local wine obtained with Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet and Viognier vines (two reds, one white and one rosé); and finally, a light beer made with Senatore Cappelli grains, Verna and Dicocco hulled spelt.
Località Salita Belvedere, 93/A
“By the time I was eight I already had my own vegetable garden. I am “crazy” about the earth! “. When the Creator made the world, he decided that Roberto Catania would live by putting his hands, soul, and heart in the soil of the Val di Cornia. “Maria, my mother, raised rabbits in the Florentina area of Piombino, where when I was fifteen, I was asked to manage about one hectare of olive groves and vineyards, bought by my parents at my insistent pressure; then in 1972 I had the beautiful idea of buying a hectare of a centuries-old olive grove on Belvedere hill”. And up here, a stone’s throw from paradise, Roberto Catania has found his ideal dimension. In 2001 he left the factory forever to devote himself to his natural vocation: “working the land and selling directly what I cultivate with my hands”. The first “important job” was to put the abandoned olive trees back into production and then set up an oil mill dedicated solely to my olives. Roberto is counted among the first olive growers who understood how important it was to crush the olives differently according to the harvest time by adjusting the speed of the crushing hammers: faster with green olives, more slowly with ripe olives, to safeguard and enhance the characteristics of the fruit… Here the pressing is done cold (never over 22°) without filtering, and keeping the oil obtained in stainless steel tanks under nitrogen, to preserve the integrity of the product. Passion and love for this work are the basis of a high-quality extra virgin olive oil: La Casaccia. Roberto does not like monovarietal “because only by knowing the characteristics of each type of cultivar is it possible to assemble balanced oils for their organoleptic characteristics”. Roberto’s other passion is the processing of fruit and vegetables which he transforms into jams, sauces, creams, pickles. His artichokes are legendary but also the Borrettane and Tropea onions, jams (about twenty different types) such as pear, peach, red mulberry, strawberry grape, medlar, white watermelon, jujube, and strawberry tree… and vegetable jams too, ideal to eat with cheese. The raw material is strictly of his own production and the processing takes place on the farm without the use of jellies or preservatives. “To do this job you need to know how to do many things: how to be a mechanic, a farmer, a producer; I like to understand, to know and to discover what can be done with garden products “. Roberto is a down to earth dreamer. “My wife says I don’t stop thinking even when I sleep …”
For him Suvereto is a place of great charm where you can breathe the Middle Ages which is expressed with excellent productions, from wine to oil, passing to fruit and vegetables. For a long time, a forgotten place, it has now been rediscovered thanks to a virtuous territory.
Le Piane del Milia
Località Calzalunga, 165
Carlo and Gabriella were still children when they dreamt of living in the countryside. They “saw” their future far from Varese. The call of the earth was strong, of the days spent listening to the whispers of the countryside, the real one that asks for a lot of work but gives you a healthy life in exchange. They found that place where the green lung of Montioni overlooks the sweet Val di Cornia drawn by the waters of the Milia. “Large spaces and the energy of places where you can live in balance with Mother Nature”. Therefore, it was also a soul-searching journey that began at the start of the third millennium. Today Le Piane del Milia is a farm that tells of a 360° life choice and a love for nature: over 40 hectares cultivated organically with particular attention to biodynamic practices, where cereals, fruit, vegetables are produced and also an excellent extra virgin olive oil. Ancient grains such as Senatore Cappelli, Khorasan and Timilia are brought to the Le Pietre mill (result of the Sterpaia project) where they become flour for bread or pasta. The company’s products are the result of a relationship with the elements based on respect: “Only in this way can you live in harmony with the land that must not be exploited but put in a position to produce thanks to natural vitality”. Carlo and Gabriella, with their daughters Greta and Gaia, are storytellers of a territory to be discovered also because Le Piane del Milia is a place of hospitality, a real farmhouse where you can share country life and the good feeling of feeling like guests of the planet earth. “Suvereto is the heart of a green and peaceful Tuscany. This generous land is a stone’s throw from the Milia and is caressed by a particular light and gives out a beautiful strong energy “. Carlo and Gabriella understood this immediately when they arrived at this farm. And where is the Suvereto Genius loci felt? “There are no doubts. On the road that dances towards Belvedere hill, when, near the ancient wash houses, it overlooks this wonderful plain.
Loc. Germandine, 119
There are places that speak with the great beauty of the landscape and the souls of people embody aesthetics with a great sensitivity towards the essence of nature. Pietro and Laura are Ligurian but have chosen the hills of the Val di Cornia to cultivate, organically transforming medicinal and aromatic plants. “We came here to support the land and enhance its naturalness through spontaneous plants and others to be cultivated and transformed into extracts, liqueurs and herbal teas. The Ligurian origins of Laura and Pietro are testified by the Rose Syrup gallica officinalis, a fresh and thirst-quenching drink from Genoese tradition. The “d’erba Luisa” liqueur and the Mirto liqueur are worth a trip. If you want to feel the whole Mediterranean in one sip, just try the Digestive made with 24 herbs. The laboratory is a virtuous example of a green building; Laura, Pietro, and their daughter Scilla, are the testimony that the biological dimension is something much more concrete than just romantic dreams. Living in the countryside is a conscious choice that implies love and intelligence. It’s enough to live the days dedicated to the botanical recognition of plants and to their transformation in their company to perceive the meaning of this choice. An apartment and a guest room are the opportunity to live like true agritourists.
Località Pietrasca, 44
Paolo and Marinella had already understood, already in the 70s, where the world was going. For a few years they only lived for work, knowing full well that when you enter the system that upsets the biological rhythms of the mind and body, it is easy to lose your compass. They did not lose it and the route indicated Tuscany. They arrived in Suvereto to live in equilibrium with the land. They did not convert a farm into an organic farm because it was the trend of the moment, they simply applied their principles of sustainable life to agriculture. La Cortevilla is an eco-sustainable farmhouse, from architecture to energy production and waste disposal. Paolo and Marina practice organic and biodynamic agriculture “because it is the only way to contain the spread of GMOs and the intensive exploitation of the soil, affected by the high concentration of synthetic chemical products. Only by respecting the land can we have healthy and quality vegetables and fruit”. They share projects and ideas with other farms in the area: deep values, brilliant minds, hands in the earth. On the farm you can buy all varieties of vegetables, pickles, sauces, tomato sauce and jams.
Between the plain and the hills of San Lorenzo, the Giovani oil mill is a reference point in the production of extra virgin olive oil, an expression of this territory. In addition to its own production, the oil mill works for third parties and is a familiar place for many farmers in the area. The olive harvest is still done by hand and organic substances are used to fertilize the trees. In the oil mill shop, you can buy the classic version of extra virgin olive oil from conventional agriculture and that from organic farming. Also, on the shelves there is flavoured extra virgin olive oil and local products such as olives in jars, natural or in brine, game sauces, artisanal pasta, and local wines.
Località Casetta di Cornia
Andriolo, Verna, Timilia, Senator Cappelli. Luca Balleri look to the future by grinding ancient grains. The curious, cultured miller with a passion for flour is, together with his wife Valentina Bezzi, the soul of the Il Felciaione farm specialising in the production of stone-ground cereals and therefore in the sale of modern and ancient flours and semolina. Stone grinding is a choice of life, or rather of two lives that met at university: he, future agronomist, she, future psychologist have chosen to live in this place where you breathe the scent of the sea and the earth, the essences of the Mediterranean bush. 18 hectares in the area Casetta di Cornia which since 1867, as can be seen in the Leopoldino land registry, are part of the area called Felciaione. Luca and Valentina’s idea was to tell and enhance this territory by recovering the most authentic sense in short supply in the production of flour and pasta. The project, born in 2014, is now a splendid reality: the farm, from the cultivation of cereals to the production under organic conditions and today the two “kids” are now officially custodian farmers of ancient grains. The grains that were used in ancient times but also the modern ones grown while paying attention to the environment, the health of the soil and plants are the origin of flours that unlike those industrially produced are characterized by flavours and high nutritional values and are strongly linked to this territory. Stone grinding guarantees high quality by preserving the nutritional principles of the cereal in nature, a greater quantity of bran and the preservation of the germ in its entirety. Felciaione is a place where knowledge meets passion and work is based on the sensitivity of people who love to share and communicate experiences and discoveries where human hands meet and enhance the values of mother nature. Here the white mill is not the stereotype built for the marketing of a large industry but the recovery of a zero-kilometre production that has been missing in the Val di Cornia for 40 years following the depopulation of the countryside and the race towards “progress”. Luca and Valentina have given restaurateurs, cooks, and cooking enthusiasts the pleasure of going back to putting their hands in pasta and smelling the scent of wheat germ and homemade bread. At the mill you can buy over 50 products including soft and durum wheat flours, Khorasan, Spelt, Buckwheat, legume flours and bronze drawn pasta by Senatore Cappelli, Timilia, Verna, Khorasan and Spelt. The millstones and the cultured miller write white stories every day.
Via Valdicciola, 170
The Deiola family is a Sardinian island in Tuscany that has its roots in Benetutti, right in the middle of Barbagia. At the end of the 1960s, Andrea and Francesco’s parents arrived with a few hundred sheep in the Val di Cornia, bringing their culture linked to pastoralism. Since 2014 Andrea and Francesco have decided to devote themselves to the transformation of milk. Today the small dairy is a tasteful factory that produces cheese every day with a simple and authentic soul like the hands of the Deiolas. “The idea of creating pecorino cheese comes from the desire to diversify the agricultural expression of this territory which represents excellence in terms of biodiversity: from wine to cheese, from extra virgin olive oil to honey, Suvereto is a place of wealth where the hands of man and Mother Nature create small works of art” says Andrea. In addition to traditional pecorino cheese and a high-quality ricotta, it is possible to buy pecorino cheeses flavoured with pepper, pistachio, chilli pepper and with infusions of saffron, lemon balm and oregano. Do not miss the soft pecorino cheeses, “a genius born by mistake”. The Deiola today
assapora i vini e la cucina di Suvereto e dintorni
Barbara Pruneti is a young entrepreneur who with courage has relaunched the place where she already worked, what was once the Pergola. Today she have renewed the offer by adding breakfasts and aperitifs to the service.
There are always excellent appetizers, sandwiches, pizzas, first courses and fried foods with particular attention to local products and the enhancement of the territory. Here you can also try gluten-free bread, pasta and pizza, to meet everyone’s needs.
Via Belvedere, 7, Suvereto, LI, Italia - Suvereto
Al Rifugio is a restaurant, nestled in the hills a few kilometers from the village of Suvereto, that offers traditional and genuine dishes. The specialties are made by chef Antonio Meli, with local products: fresh pasta and exquisite seafood dishes in a convivial and familiar environment.
Enoteca dei Difficili
Osteria Pizzeria Il Melograno
It is inside a centuries-old building characterized by stone walls and columns and vaults, which remind us of the medieval period and bring us back to those ancient atmospheres. The kitchen offers typical ancient and current recipes of Tuscany. Their pizzas, with semi-wholemeal and cereal doughs, are prepared with classic toppings or according to the fantasies of the pizza chef, Diego. Daniele Soldi, with his wife Tiziana and their children Diego and Alessandra are waiting for you.
Bar Trattoria La Sugheraia
Located just outside the historic center, you will find La Sugheraia, a place with the style of the old village shops, where you can simply enjoy the bar service and an excellent coffee, or delight yourself with the typical dishes of the Tuscan Trattoria, prepared by the owner Gabriele and his wife Valentina.
It is a long time since Fabrizio decided to allow in his kitchen only products from organic farms: they are the ones that can bring wonderful tastes and perfumes which persist in the heart and in the memories of those who take place in our restaurant.
Our goal, in fact, has always been to offer a menu that can connect health, innovation and appreciation of our territory, without forgetting seasonality: Fabrizio is confident that we will be able to enjoy smells and tastes only when we put in our dish what our territory gives us according to the period of the year.
Now we can say that I’Ciocio is a dream come true: without being distracted by the temptations of the market, offering any kinds of products in any seasons, we manage to insert new recipes and new flavours in our menu, combining food trends with respect for tradition and genuineness.
Ristorante dal Cacini
An elegant, intimate, refined restaurant, where you can enjoy a menu based exclusively on fresh fish, structured entirely according to what the chef Marco Ticciati can find from the daily fish market. His wife, Moira, will welcome and take care of your experience here.
Enoteca Delle Carceri
Wine shop in the historic center of Suvereto, located on the main street, where you can enjoy splendid aperitifs paired with chopping boards with typical local products or simple traditional dishes, surrounded by an intimate atmosphere and a lot of history.
La Barona Bistrò
Located right at the entrance of the medieval village of Suvereto, an intimate and welcoming place! Open from early morning for breakfast to after dinner for aperitifs and long drinks. It also offers the possibility to stop for lunch with local cold cuts and cheeses, or dishes from the typical Tuscan cuisine. All this accompanied by native wines and the friendliness of the owner Nicola.
Giorgio Nocciolini Catering & Banqueting
Giorgio Nocciolini Catering was founded over 25 years ago in Suvereto, as a catering & banqueting activity for weddings and events. They make particular attention to the quality of the services offered and above all to the raw materials, preferring local ones, for the creation of creative menus, totally personalized for customers.
The eighty-year-old cook Alfonsina and her son Maurizio Martini are a perfect mix that deserves a visit in the oldest restaurant in Suvereto and the area. Typical and genuine Tuscan cuisine, all categorically handmade . A Trattoria with a vintage flavor, where tradition and fresh local products always come first.
Locanda delle Stelle
La Locanda delle Stelle is a gourmet restaurant based on a the traditional Tuscan cuisine, revisited in a modern key, adding the imagination and culinary innovation of the young chef Gian Maria Margelli to the goodness of the typical dishes.
Il Caminetto was founded in 1982, by the Giannini family, and is located right inside the historic center of Suvereto.
They offer typical dishes of the Tuscan tradition, from the homemade Tortelli to the stewed Wild Boar. They also prepare delicious pizzas using top local products.