The Village, its Life, its People
Flavours and aromas are those that are breathed in the homes and countryside of a Tuscany that tells its story beyond its stereotypes. Wine bars, taverns and artisan shops are places of simple conviviality and a sharing of values that have their roots in a generous and hospitable land. The village is a dimension of tranquillity, an invitation to sink into the well-being of simple things.
the artisans of Suvereto
“It is important to know how to guide fire. It’s all dark but you have to understand how the fire moves, see where you can’t see. For two days and two nights”. Mauro Cecchetti, the last charcoal burner of Suvereto is the lord of the woods. For him, winters, nights, strong winds, summer lulls have no secrets when he is in the heart of the scrub and is walking in the woods. He has been making charcoal for forty years and learned from Ermanno, “the best of the charcoal burners who was from Riotorto”. The first black men were nomads and crossed all of Tuscany from the forests of the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines: men of few words but of many acquaintances. Mauro is a silent artist. Even cigarette smoke is his friend and draws his thoughts in the air. Lively eyes and many stories to tell, but above all the art of knowing how to build perfect stacks with the soul of fire. A silent and laborious fire that slowly turns wood into charcoal. Suvereto’s last charcoal burner knows perfectly well about the souls of fire that play and feed on the breaths of the sirocco or grecale winds: they cannot be seen but he knows how they move inside the black domes and guides them like a shepherd does with his sheep in the night. And after two days and two nights, the souls of fire well guided by Mauro transform branches of holm oaks, broom, and oaks into crystals. The tinkling of coal cuts the hushed atmosphere of the forest and fills the artist, with black hands, with pride. “There are few of us left. Once we met in the woods along invisible paths, today I am up here alone”; ancient stories keep him company and he is lucky because in the evening he returns to the village where his wife is waiting for him. “Not always though …” When the wood burns, he stays here, looking at the stars or the nomadic clouds as the coal fumes write poems in the black sky.
In Diego Daddi’s workshop, time is an indefinite dimension because he plays with the centuries by making small works of art for all types of feet: beautiful, ugly, small, straight, and crooked. It all starts with a sheet of paper and a pencil. And those that meet Diego are lucky feet …
He left a permanent job to do the thing he does best, making shoes, bags, boots, and belts. As Diego likes to repeat, “quel pellaio” in fact, “I have the Middle Ages inside myself” and he discovered his talents by making small leather goods in the occasion of the historical processions that are quite frequent in Suvereto and also participating in medieval markets in other various Tuscan festivals. “Quel Pellaio di Diego” designs and manufactures shoes. Shapes, finishes, paying attention to detail, hand stitching makes them unique pieces, unquestionably beautiful and elegant. The production is limited because everything is done by hand: from the classic English, French and timeless “clark” boots to “derby” type boots, work, and riding boots and extraordinary buttero “cowboy” boots. For fans of the Middle Ages, however, il Pellaio has a line of shoes from the 1200s and 1300s with models intended for the people or for nobles and knights. In his small workshop you can perceive the beauty of an artfully created shoe: The Pellaio’s hands and genius tell the story of almost a thousand years of shoes.
Suvereto è Città del Vino, Città dell’Olio, Bolghi più Belli d’Italia, Città Slow Food e Bandiera Arancione del Touring Club